Group 4 – Nautical Craft

For entries in this group, the base is considered in your judging decisions. ModelBase programmatically weights the criteria based upon the table below. If a criteria element is not present record a value of “0” on the tablet scoring page.

Group5 - Other Percentages

The ModelBase scoring system will automatically apply these percentages when your rating of 1-10 is entered into it.

Criteria Scoring Guidance

Basic Construction
“Construction” is defined as the technique used to: a) form component parts to their proper shape and size; b) fit component parts together properly; and c) join the component parts properly. Flash should be removed. Mold marks, sinks, copyright marks, and ejector pin marks should be eradicated. There should be no seams, glue marks or sanding scratches.  Hollow areas and joints should be filled where necessary. Contour errors should be corrected. Scratch-built items or added detail on kits should be consistent in construction and detailing.  Overly thick parts should be thinned down to scale size or replaced with suitable materials. Surface detailing removed during construction should be restored to the maximum extent possible. Ship’s superstructure (platform, cabins, funnels, etc.) should be properly aligned with the vertical when viewed from the stem or stern. Masts should also be parallel to the vertical axis of the ship when viewed from the stem or stern. Rake should be uniform (unless real vessel has them different.) Rigging tension should not cause masts and spars to bend. Configuration should be proper for time frame modeled. For examples, the USS New Jersey looked much different in 1978 as opposed to 1945. Thinned down the bulwarks, splinter shields, etc., or replaced with thin plastic card.

Paint and Finish
“Paint and Finish” is defined as the technique used to provide appropriate color, texture, and appearance to the model. Applied paint should be even and smooth, unless there is prototypical evidence to the contrary. No paint brush marks should be evident where not appropriate. Fingerprints or smudges imprinted in the paint, or of a different color, are major errors. Flat or gloss finishes should be consistent and appropriate to the context of the model. Demarcation lines between differing colored areas should be straight and crisp lines particularly on clear parts. Paint edges should be sharp and should not have a raised edge where tape was applied. Weathering and age effects should show concert for scale (i.e., size, location of paint-chipped areas), concern for the environmental factors the real model was exposed to. In smaller scales, “pure” colors should be adjusted.  For example, black should be tinted with white; white should be grayed out. The color scheme should coincide with the time era modeled. Even coming straight out of dry dock, a ship will already show some signs of “weathering”.  Rust will show at anchor hawse pipes, as well as the bow and stern.  Salt buildup on the hull will have a whitening effect.

“Decals” are defined as waterslide or dry transfer type designed to provide detailed markings, numbering, lettering, etc. to the model. Where such markings are designed and scratch-painted, they are still considered “decals” and should have the same properties. Edge decal film should not be readily apparent. There should be no silvering or bubbling under the decal. Decals should be aligned properly and of the correct scale size unless there is evidence to the contrary. Decals should be of uniform finish (important on kit-bashed models using multiple decal sheets).

“Details” are defined as the properly rendered and to-scale detailed features of the model. Details should supplement the basic model and enhance the scale effect portraying it accurately. Electrical lines and cables should be added where required. Guns barrels, exhaust stacks, intakes, vents, etc., should be drilled out. Smaller items added to the model (i.e. weapons, munitions, accessories, etc.) should be in-scale or not noticeably different. External or internal stores on the model should have undergone the proper care construction and finish as the basic kit. After-market parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model.  Photo-etched parts which require forming should be precisely shaped and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform. Masts and antennae that have over-scale thickness should be replaced or modified to be of proper dimension. Rigging should be done in fine thread or sprue as close to scale as possible. Molded railings should be replaced. Small molded details on the deck, funnels, etc., should be removed and replaced with scratch-built or aftermarket parts. Rig all sailing ships correctly as to era, and to the lines used; also rig the lines correctly. For example, a shroud should end on a deadeye or a metal truss rod, not on the gunwale. Metal chains should not be used for the anchor of halyards for a frigate from early periods (1650). Are deadeyes upside down?  Are rigging lines and blocks in proportion to each other?

A “base” is defined as the surrounding carrier and/or environment that the model is mounted in and displayed upon. Bases should be well-rendered, integrated and not detract from the impression of the model. Many bases include surrounding ground-work or water depicting the model in its natural environment. These features should be realistic and in-scale if the modeler chooses to display the model in this fashion.

No award – score 1 or 2    out of 10 possible
Merit –        score 3 or 4    out of 10 possible
Bronze –      score 5 or 6    out of 10 possible
Silver –        score 7 or 8    out of 10 possible
Gold –         score 9 or 10   out of 10 possible